Jim Bowie

Position your heat shield so the “V” on the bottom is centered over the firepot. This piece will split your rising heat left and right, so proper placement is crucial.

If your grill seems to run hotter than what it displays, or if it has a hot right side, move your heat shield further to the right. If the grill is running cooler, move it to the left. A general rule is half an inch for every 10°C (50°F) of difference you experience. Once the perfect placement is achieved, measure the shields distance to the left wall of the grill for future reference.

• The bottom tray has the half moon cut out that wraps around the thermal sensor on the left. The top tray has two handles on either end, and sits flush against the bottom tray, sliding left and right to open and close the holes.
• Here, you can see the correct positioning of the bottom portion of the two part grease tray with the half moon cut out to the left around the thermal sensor.
• This grease tray system was designed so the top tray can move left and right to open and close the holes. For indirect heating you will want the holes closed, this is best for temperatures 180°C(350°F) or less. If you want to sear your meat you will want to have the holes open, allowing direct heat to your meat.
• You can use aluminum foil with this system, we recommend wrapping the top tray.

We use two finger widths as a general rule for cap height. If you are experiencing any temperature or combustion related issues, raise your cap up all the way to give your grill enough space to release exhaust.

To adjust, loosen nut at base of the screw, then adjust the nut on the top of the chimney cap either up or down. Tighten set screw to secure in place.

After every cook, drop the temp to 65°C(150°F) on the digital readout, then press the down arrow one more time. The LCD screen will read “fan” and run a timed cycle to blow out all the excess ash. Once the fan cycle is complete the grill will display “off” and is ready to be used again.

• Rest the rectangular heat shield over the mounted brackets located on either side of the fire pot.
• If you chose to use the optional side heat deflectors, install them on either side of the center heat shield. You may experiment with the orientation of the side heat deflectors to customise the heat distribution of the grill.

• Line up hinge pegs on the tray with the hinge receivers attached to the right side of the grill.
• Secure table into brackets, then lift tray up and attach the support arm.
• Push down abruptly on the top of the tray to snap into place.

To install the chimney you will need a 10mm wrench or socket. Tighten the chimney securely to the side of the grill. Make sure that the gasket goes between the chimney and the grill itself.

Fan motor overload: Check wires and wire connection to the combustion fan.

Auger motor overload: Check wires and wire connections to the auger motor.

Low voltage: Try different power source.

Igniter overload: Try disconnecting the igniter (red wires) and see if code goes away. If the code remains the control board is the issue, and needs to be replaced.

Failure to ignite: Clean out the burn pot and retry. If that is not successful, find out if pellets are feeding during start up, and if the igniter gets hot.

Look up under the hopper and locate the 2 black wires attached to the hopper fan. These wires connect with 2 blue wires using in-line connectors. Ensure that those connections do not appear to be damaged in any way.
If wiring is damaged, please contact us service@greenmountaingrills.com.au.

No food detected.

Make sure meat probe is securely inserted into control board with no kinks in the wire. If this doesn’t resolve the “NFD” code your grill will require a new meat probe.

If you’d like extend the lifetime of your favourite grill, consider doing a bit of preventative maintenance.  Check out this handy video to see what you can do to keep you grilling longer.

Uneven heat can be corrected by making small adjustments to your heat shield placement, sliding the shield towards the hot side in ¼ inch increments, taking note of the temperature changes.

*Once you find the best heat shield placement, we encourage you to measure the distance from the shield to the left wall of the grill, that way you can repeat that positioning after every time the grill is relocated or the burn pot is cleared.

This normally coincides with uneven heat across your grilling surface. If the dome thermometer is hot then you need to move the heat shield to the right, deflecting more heat towards your thermal sensor, balancing out your temps. Slide the heat shield in ¼ inch increments, taking note of the temperature changes.

Possible causes (you may see an FAL message when this occurs):

• There could be too much ash in the firebox. Wait until it cools off, and clean out the ash.
• Pellets may have overfilled the firebox. Never turn the grill off and on repeatedly, as this will fill the firebox with pellets. The igniter cannot light the pellets unless air can flow freely through the combustion chamber.
• Combustion fan was not operating. Check to make sure the fan blades turn freely and that it runs on Cycle 2 of the 0-1- 2-3 sequence. Replace if necessary.
• The firebox could be empty because the auger has not fed pellets into it. Refer “My auger is jamming” under the troubleshooting tab.
• If there is no ash buildup, the fans work properly, and fresh pellets are feeding in, your igniter is out and the grill will require a replacement igniter.

You can disconnect and reconnect the alarm from the back of the control panel. If the beeping persists, your alarm is broken and can be replaced. You can purchase the low pellet alarm here.

*The low pellet alarm is not necessary for the grills functionality. You can leave the Alarm disconnected and continue cooking.

At times, the wires underneath your hopper assembly will shift and block your auger motor fan. Take a look underneath your grill for a wire obstruction and simply move it away from your auger fan blade. This will end the clicking noise.

If your grill is making a clicking noise and the auger does not run, most likely there is a stripped gear in the gearbox, and the auger motor will have to be replaced.

Turn the grill into cycle “0” (first stage of the normal start-up procedure) and take a look at the little white fan attached to the end of the auger motor. If the fan isn’t running, or runs momentarily before it comes to a stop, you have an auger jam.

If the fan spins but you don’t have pellets feeding into the burn pot, you either have pellets bridged up over the intake for the auger tube or something broken within your auger assembly. You can purchase a replacement here.

If you determined that your auger is jammed, you can try to work the affected pellets through the auger tube to clear out the jam.

Remove all the pellets from the hopper as well as the grease tray and heat shield from the body of the grill.

Turn the grill into cycle “0” (first stage of normal start-up procedure) and simultaneously tap the auger tube with a mallet or small hammer to help alleviate the jam. Repeat this process until the auger is totally clear.

Never just use the ON/OFF switch to turn the grill off. instead, hold the down arrow to lower the temperature to 150 F. Release the button and press it once again to enter “FAN” mode. The grill will automatically power down after the “FAN” mode ends. At that time, you may use the ON/OFF switch to cut power to the grill.

The first thing we’ll need to do is reset your grill and attempt an update.

There are two reasons we want to focus on updating:

1. Ensures you have the latest firmware, older firmware versions do not support WiFi mode.
2. Being able to perform an update will mean that we have been able to get the grill on your home WiFi. If WiFi mode still doesn’t work after that then we know it’s a problem locating the grill but not a problem getting the grill on the home WiFi.

So what I’d like you to do is confirm the following after performing a reset of the grill and attempt an update:

1. Make sure you have tried resetting your router, many times this is all it takes.
2. Make sure the GMG network has a strong signal when standing next to your home router. We need to make sure range is not an issue and the grill antennae is not damaged.
3. Make sure you are only using the 2.4 GHz band on your dual band router. The grill does not work with 5.0 GHz networks.
4. Make sure there is no ‘!’ (pre 6.0 firmware) in the SSID or password, to be safe use letters and numbers only until you get it working. (Really old versions of the firmware do not accept any special characters)
5. Make sure you are using WPA (WPA2_AES preferred) encryption for the password. Some routers using WEP have been known not to work with the grill and WPA is the current standard and more secure than WEP.
6. Make sure your password is less than 40 characters (pre 6.4 firmware, 6.4 supports up to 64 characters)

We use two finger widths as a general rule for cap height. If you are experiencing any temperature or combustion related issues, raise your cap up all the way to give your grill enough space to release exhaust.

To adjust, loosen nut at base of the screw, then adjust the nut on the top of the chimney cap either up or down. Tighten set screw to secure in place.

We use two finger widths as a general rule for cap height. If you are experiencing any temperature or combustion related issues, raise your cap up all the way to give your grill enough space to release exhaust.

To adjust, loosen nut at base of the screw, then adjust the nut on the top of the chimney cap either up or down. Tighten set screw to secure in place.

Often times your heat shield will get positioned to far to the left, which deflects to much heat to the right side of your grill. This makes it impossible for you thermal sensor to get proper readings, and will cause your grill to run at a higher temperature than it displays. Simply reposition your heat shield further to the right to correct this issue.

This also might happen on a hot day, similar to how your car can be hotter inside than it is outside. The grill needs to produce enough heat to keep the fire going, and rarely, on hot and windy days, the inside temperature may exceed the set temperature. Opening the lid for a few minutes at a time will normally solve this issue.

The first thing we’ll need to do is reset your grill and attempt an update.

There are two reasons we want to focus on updating:

1. Ensures you have the latest firmware, older firmware versions do not support WiFi mode.
2. Being able to perform an update will mean that we have been able to get the grill on your home WiFi. If WiFi mode still doesn’t work after that then we know it’s a problem locating the grill but not a problem getting the grill on the home WiFi.

Confirm the following after performing a reset of the grill and attempt an update:

1. Make sure you have tried resetting your router, many times this is all it takes.
2. Make sure the GMG network has a strong signal when standing next to your home router. We need to make sure range is not an issue and the grill antennae is not damaged.
3. Make sure you are only using the 2.4 GHz band on your dual band router. The grill does not work with 5.0 GHz networks.
4. Make sure there is no ‘!’ (pre 6.0 firmware) in the SSID or password, to be safe use letters and numbers only until you get it working. (Really old versions of the firmware do not accept any special characters)
5. Make sure you are using WPA (WPA2_AES preferred) encryption for the password. Some routers using WEP have been known not to work with the grill and WPA is the current standard and more secure than WEP.
6. Make sure your password is less than 40 characters (pre 6.4 firmware, 6.4 supports up to 64 characters)

Total Range: 150-500°F (550°F on the Davy Crockett)

Popular designations:
Smoke: 150-220°F
Barbecue: 225-275°F
Roast: 280-375°F
Grill: 380-475°F
Sear: 480-500°F (550°F on the Davy Crockett)

Food cooks by three methods:

Conduction: food heats by contact with a hot surface such as the grate on the grill or a pan.

Convection: hot air molecules bounce around inside the grill cavity and barrage the food.

Radiation: infrared rays, if you use GMG’s open flame technology, heat the food.

The grill’s thermal sensor retrieves data from inside the grill. The computer on the control panel analyzes the data and responds by adjusting the airflow inside the grill and the pellet flow into the firebox. Here’s the crux: the data gathered by the PK100 platinum sensor can be erratic. Think about all of the things that affect this data – the cover being opened and closed, wind, cold food, grease splattering on the drip tray, humidity, altitude, and even how level the grill is (which can affect pellet flow into the firebox – gravity!) So the computer receives all of this data, averages it over time, and provides a reasonably accurate display of the overall temperature inside your grill. This is why an instant air temperature reading from a 3rd party product such as Maverick, does not really provide much useful information. Your food cooks, as we’ve learned, by a combination of all three methods. The instant reading tells you only one piece of information from a tiny portion of the total space inside the grill cavity. it does not tell you the whole picture. A reading from one cubic millimeter of a cavity in which there are about 83 million cubic millimeters is not a microcosm of the cavity temperature.

• Many factors affect the left-to-right temperatures inside the grill. Prevailing winds may cool down one quadrant of the grill. Outside air temperature may require more air infusion from the combustion fan in order to maintain the set temperature. Cold food on one side or the other may produce lower temperatures in that area. This phenomenon would happen in any brand of pellet grill, in spite of what their marketing departments would have you believe. Fortunately, Green Mountain has a solution in its moveable heat shield.
• In most cases, centering the “V” on the underside of your heat shield over the firebox will provide satisfactory results from side to side.
• If you move the heat shield to the left, the temperature on the right will increase, and vice-versa.
• Some people still feel more comfortable using instant readings from an instrument such as a Maverick than with the computer’s averages. If you wish to adjust your grill’s temperature to match your 3rd party device, move the heat shield to the left (makes the Maverick’s display’s read hotter) or to the right (makes it cooler.) These are small changes to get it dialed in. Pushing the heat shield left a very small amount from the center will direct the flame away from the thermal sensor causing it to read less heat. When it reads lower, it will raise the temp of the grill overall. Making it more accurate to what the grill is reading.
• Make small changes of about 1/8” to get accurate adjustments.

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